Finding My Way Home – Wild November

Finding My Way Home – Wild November

Wild November is the twenty-fifth installment of Finding My Way Home. To view the previous installment, click here. If you wish to start from the beginning, click here. This is the ongoing story of the six years I spent as a vagabond photographer.

Enchanting sunrise at Elephant Butte Lake, New Mexico.
“Land of Enchantment”

After a short stay in Aztec, I point my motor home towards Grants, New Mexico. With major road construction going on, the road is gravel for about fifteen miles. Wouldn’t you know it, a flying rock chips my brand new windshield! This time, it is a small chip that should be repairable. Upon check-in at the Bar S RV Park, I ask if there is a chip repair place in town that will come to me. The woman at the desk hands me the local yellow pages and I make note of a business that offers mobile chip repair.

The next morning, I call and set an appointment. Feeling good about handling that issue, I set off to resupply groceries and explore the town. This is one of the many towns situated on historic Route 66. But, unlike other towns I’ve visited on Route 66, this one seems very run down and depressed. It’s clear to me that this place is not making the most of its history. The sad vibe makes me anxious to move on, but I try to make the best of the few days I am here.

A small group of four sandhill cranes (Antigone canadensis) arrive early at Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge. The New Mexico refuge is a regular stop for thousands of sandhill cranes every year during the fall migration.
“Migration Begins”

The next day, Luna and I go for a long walk and then settle in to make some lunch and wait for the windshield repairman. My appointment is at 1:00pm. When no one shows up by 2:00, I make a call to find out when he will be there. My call goes to voicemail. I call again at 3:00 and again get voicemail. No answer the rest of the afternoon.

The next morning I call and ask what happened. He says he had an emergency and will be here at 3:00 this afternoon. Once again, the scheduled time comes and goes and no one shows up. Once again, my attempts to reach him go unanswered. Now, it’s getting to be urgent because I want to have the repair done before I travel further and risk the crack spreading.

A white-crowned sparrow (Zonotrichia leucophrys) poses against a backdrop of autumn color at Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, New Mexico.
“White Crowned Sparrow in Autumn”

I try another place, which offers chip repair, but not mobile service. I ask if they would be willing to come to the RV park and do the repair. After much hesitancy and my agreement to pay a ninety-dollar extra fee, they will do it. I’m beginning to wonder if the local businesses disdain for customers might be one of the reasons this town is in economic decline.

A few days later, I’m happy to be on the road again and excited to arrive at Birdwatcher’s RV Park in San Antonio, NM, adjacent to Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge. The location is perfect! Just two miles down the road from the refuge entrance. I called in advance and was told they only rent sites nightly, no weekly or monthly rates. Their busy season will begin in a few weeks when the cranes start to arrive, so I decide I will stay a few nights and look around the area for someplace with a monthly rate.

Full orange moon rising in Southern New Mexico, near Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge.
“New Mexico Moonrise”

When I go in the office to pay, I’m told they don’t accept credit cards. Since I rarely carry more than twenty or thirty dollars in cash, I have to go to Socorro, about fifteen miles north. It would have been nice to be informed of this little detail when I called. Nonetheless, I’m thrilled to be here and can’t wait to explore this place I’ve heard so much about.

The next morning, I’m up before sunrise and off to the refuge. My first stop is a pond just outside the entrance. It’s a beautiful setting, full of ducks and shorebirds and even a couple of sandhill cranes in the distance. I’ve been told there is a pair of white-tailed kites on the refuge, which is unusual for this location. As I drive around the auto route, I see my first Javelinas! They run by so fast I cannot get a photo, but it’s thrilling to see an animal I’ve never seen before.

White-tailed Kite (Elanus leucurus), a rare visitor to the Bosque Del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, in flight early in the morning.
“Kite in Flight”

Then, at a viewing deck, I see something perched in a snag. It takes off and flies toward me. It’s one of the white-tailed kites and it flies right over my head! Moments later, the other one flies after it. Already it’s a great day and it’s not even eight o’clock yet. I’m looking forward to a wild November at this wildlife refuge.

Off to hunt at Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, this White-tailed Kite (Elanus leucurus) is something of a rarity in southern New Mexico.
“White-tailed Kite in Morning Light”

By the time I get around both loops, the visitor center is open, so I stop in to ask some questions. I find out that the cranes won’t be arriving in large numbers for at least another two weeks. Also that Elephant Butte, about sixty miles to the south, is probably my best bet for monthly RV accommodations. The volunteer there alerts me to the presence of the white-tailed kites and I excitedly share my sighting.

After a few days exploring and getting to know the refuge and surrounding area, I land at Elephant Butte Resort for a month. Included with my site is access to their indoor pool, hot tub and exercise center. This is a first for me. Never have I stayed at an RV park with such posh amenities. I have my doubts that I will make much use of them, since I’m mostly here for the birds. Then, one morning I wake up with a sore back and realize I have a hot tub available. A long soak in hot water turns out to be a nice perk.

Two sandhill cranes (Antigone canadensis) bask in autumn's glory under a massive oak tree in full autumn regalia at Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, New Mexico. The scene is reflected in a seasonal pond created by the refuge to provide habitat for cranes and other wildlife.
“Under the Old Oak Tree”

This is the place I happen to be during the 2016 presidential election. It’s stormy outside and I’m nestled in bed watching election returns on my small bedroom television. As the evening progresses, and the returns come in, it’s not looking at all like I expected. Around nine o’clock my phone rings and it’s my son asking if I’m watching. We express concern over how things are going, but hope it might turn around. By the time he calls me again at midnight, it is all but over and we are both in tears.

When I wake up the next morning, I feel like I’m awakening from a nightmare. A quick look at my phone tells me it is real. It’s hard to describe my emotions. Shocked, saddened, angry, appalled, astonished—none of these words accurately describe the visceral reaction I’m having. It’s turning out to be a wild November, but not in the way I had hoped.

One way to distinguish a snow goose (Anser caerulescens) from similar species is the characteristic separation of the bill. This trait is often referred to as a smile, or a grin. Snow goose floating in the marsh at Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, New Mexico.
“Snow Goose Grinning”

There have been many times when the candidate I voted for lost an election. It’s always disappointing, but never devastating. Feeling despair and disgust over an election is something unfamiliar to me. What is it about this man that so repulses me? Why do I feel sick to my stomach when I watch him and hear him speak? And then it hits me. A lifetime of experience has taught me to avoid men with his traits. The arrogance, the vanity, the sexism, the flaunting of wealth, the attitude that he can do whatever he wants and nobody can stop him. I’ve learned to recognize men like this and even before the Access Hollywood tapes, I knew his type. I have encountered this man over and over throughout my life.

He’s the creepy old “family friend” with a comb-over who slipped his tongue into my mouth when I was only thirteen. It happened during one of those super uncomfortable “kiss Uncle Gene goodbye” episodes my parents used to force us into as kids. (Note: please don’t ever do this to your kids)

He is the co-worker who loudly and crudely commented about my body when I worked in an all-male office. He’s the other co-workers who laughed at those comments.

He’s the wealthy businessman who wined and dined me for a month before “proposing marriage.” His conditions were that I keep myself attractive and fit and be at his beck and call for sex. I would maintain an immaculate house appropriate for entertaining his business associates and remain monogamous and loyal to him. He would travel the world on business and have sex with whomever he pleased.

He’s the boss who told me he was considering laying me off, but would let me keep my job in exchange for sexual favors.

He is all the men I’ve ever met who made me feel like a piece of meat with no worth beyond satisfying their sexual desires. And he’s all the men I’ve ever met who get indignant when I don’t consider their lewd behavior a compliment.

Fiery sunrise in the desert near Elephant Butte Lake, New Mexico.
“Desert Dawn”

This is just a sampling of a lifetime of experiences that taught me to avoid men like him at all costs. To hand him the ultimate position of power feels both terrifying and nauseating. I was always taught to respect the Office of the President, even when I don’t agree with the person who holds it. I have to admit I’m having a really hard time with that at the moment.

But, the voters have spoken, and in this country we accept the results of an election even when we don’t like the outcome. I am aware that my personal feelings are mine to deal with. Realizing that not everyone has had the same experiences, I try to focus on the policy positions I disagree with and what I can do about those.

Sandhill Cranes (Antigone canadensis) are known for their courtship dance, which they perform almost any time of year. The object of this crane's affection was busy browsing for something to eat. The lack of attention did not stop him from dancing anyway.
“Dance Like Nobody’s Watching”

I disagree with the plan to rescind the National Monument designation of Bear’s Ears. This matter doesn’t seem very important to most people, but means a lot to me. Having been there and seen the place with my own eyes not long ago, I wholeheartedly support the designation.

I disagree with the idea of building a wall the entire length of the southern border. It’s not because I condone unconstrained immigration. It’s just that in the age of spy satellites and surveillance drones, a wall seems like an expensive, medieval and environmentally destructive plan. Wildlife should be able to migrate freely, regardless of the rules we impose on people.

A flock of sandhill cranes at dawn over Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, New Mexico.
“Sunrise Flock”

Actually, there are so many things I disagree with, it would be impossible to focus on all of them. I have always believed that if each person were to put some effort into working on the thing that means most to them, each issue would receive the attention it deserves and the world would be a better place. To this end, I have decided that nature, wildlife and the environment is where I will concentrate my activist energies.

A group of snow geese (Chen caerulescens) in flight over Bosque del Apache Wildlife Refuge, New Mexico.
“Snow Geese in Flight”

In all my travels, I have always made a point to visit any National Wildlife Refuge I have been near. Most times, there is an enthusiastic volunteer in the visitor center to answer my questions and help me make the most of my visit. Suddenly, it dawns on me–I could be that volunteer.

Large, old oak reflected in the pond at Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, New Mexico. Those are sandhill cranes (Grus canadensis) browsing around the shore.
“Meet Me at the Pond”
Preserving the Joy

Preserving the Joy

Lately, I’ve been asking myself why. There are so many things in this world that need to be done, why is it that I chose nature photography. What is the reason this obsession cannot be denied? After much reflection and introspection, this is what came to me–preserving the joy. There is an inherent joy in nature that is difficult to describe in words. I feel it whenever I am out in a natural setting just being a part of the natural world and noticing the other parts. Whether it’s the wind in the leaves, the birdsong, the water flowing in a river, the clouds moving and changing shape, or the smell of pine, there is always something to notice. The sights, sounds and smells of nature bring me joy. By photographing the things that invoke that joy, I can preserve it. In this article, I will share some of the images that bring me joy. I hope they will bring you some, too.

Burrowing owl fledgling (Athene cunicularia) celebrating its newly discovered ability to fly. Photographed near Burns, Oregon.
“Burrowing Owl Joy”

Burrowing owls may not even realize how much fun they are to watch. I refer to them as the clowns of the owl world because every time I have seen them, they seem to be laughing and joking, playing around and generally having a good time. 

An unusually calm morning at Lake Siskiyou provides the perfect mirror for a swirling, dancing lenticular cloud beside majestic Mount Shasta.
“Cloud Dance”

Clouds, especially unusual ones, also bring me joy. When there is a reflection of clouds, then it is double the joy!

Just minutes before the sun rises over the horizon, the sky explodes with color, while the incredible sandstone buttes of Monument Valley remain in the dark. This is the classic view of Monument Valley, including the West Mitten, East Mitten, and Merrill Butte.
“Monumental Sunrise”

Sunrise, or more specifically, the last few minutes before the sun rises above the horizon, is an especially joyful time of day. Sunrise is hopeful and invigorating, no matter where I happen to be. It is all the more so if I happen to be in a sacred and inspiring place.

Male rufous hummingbird (Selasphorus rufus) hovering around the lilac bush at Conboy Lake National Wildlife Refuge.
“Rufous Cutie”

Hummingbirds. What else can I say? Hummingbirds make me happy.

Falls Creek Falls is an awe-inspiring waterfall in the Gifford Pinchot National forest of southern Washington. The water falls more than 300 feet over three tiers. Only the lower two tiers are visible at once, as in this image captured in the autumn rain.
“Falls Creek Falls”

Waterfalls are one of my very favorite things in the world. I’ve shot so many of them it was difficult to chose one to post here. But, this one is very special, not only because it is so breathtaking, but the hike to get there is one of the most beautiful and enjoyable I have experienced. I can almost hear the sound of the rushing water when I gaze at this image.

An abundant resident of the Klamath Basin Wildlife Refuges, the Forster's tern (Sterna forsteri) puts on a show with much hovering, swooping and diving.
“Forster’s Tern”

Have you heard the saying “if you could only bottle this feeling and sell it, you could make a fortune?” Well, it’s not bottled and I’m certainly not making a fortune, but it does feel like I’m preserving the joy in some small way. My wish to all of you for this holiday season and the year ahead is that whether it’s vast or tiny, common or rare, soaring or grounded, majestic or adorable, you have the opportunity to experience the profound joy of nature. 

America’s Public Lands – Malheur NWR

America’s Public Lands – Malheur NWR


At the northernmost end of the Great Basin in western North America lies Malheur National Wildlife Refuge. Set aside in 1908 as a bird sanctuary by President Theodore Roosevelt, and added to over the century since, Malheur today consists of 187,757 acres of wildlife habitat, including Malheur, Harney and Mud Lakes, plus the Blitzen River Valley. Interestingly, in learning about the history of the Harney Basin, I discovered that we all owe a debt of gratitude to a wildlife photographer–William L. Finley. His photographs and advocacy are largely responsible for the designation, which eventually came to be a wildlife refuge, both here and in the Klamath Basin, roughly 200 miles to the south and west.

"Crane Training" by Loree Johnson Photography. Sandhill crane (Grus canadensis) with its colt, teaching the art of foraging. Photographed at Malheur National Wildlife Refuge, Oregon. Crane Training

On this day, the fourth anniversary of the day I pulled up roots and went vagabond, it seems appropriate to look back, not only over the summer spent here, but the ever-evolving journey of life on the road. As a direct result of the 2016 election and its ensuing assault on the environment in general, and public lands in particular, my travels have morphed from a random list of desired places to see, to a more focused effort of doing a small part to help save our precious public lands for future generations. As a volunteer, I hope to add value and provide information for those who visit these extraordinary places. Over the summer, I have found Malheur to be not only a refuge for wildlife, but a respite for people. It seems almost as many visitors come here for the peace and wide open spaces as the wildlife.

"Barn Owl Hiding" by Loree Johnson Photography. Barn owl (Tyto alba) hiding among the tree branches at Malheur National Wildlife Refuge, Oregon. Barn Owl Hiding

If you have heard of this place, it is likely because of the armed occupation that happened in January of 2016. However, there has been conflict here for well over 100 years. The competing interests of cattle ranchers, farmers and wildlife protectors have been vying for limited water and resources since the early settlers arrived in the late 1800’s. At the same time the lake was set aside as a wildlife sanctuary, the Bureau of Reclamation was busy draining wetlands in an attempt to create more agricultural land. By the 1930’s, the draining of natural marshes had caused even more damage to bird populations than the original plume hunters the sanctuary was created to protect against.

"Owl Scowl" by Loree Johnson Photography. Great horned owl (Bubo virginianus) with a scowl on its face, perched in a tree at Malheur National Wildlife Refuge, Oregon. Owl Scowl

Despite many conflicts over the years, including the armed occupation of 2016, the people of Harney County have forged relationships and compromises over many years, with the deep ties to the land here as literally, common ground. As my time here winds down and I contemplate moving on, I can’t help but feel a sense of hope that the efforts of those who work hard to bring people to the table in order to hammer out agreements and accommodations is paying off.

"Natural Friendship" by Loree Johnson Photography. This mule deer buck (Odocoileus hemionus) welcomes the little passenger on his back. The brown headed cowbird (Molothrus ater) feeds on ticks and other pests that are attracked to the deer. The deer, in turn, provides a source of food for the bird. Photographed at Malheur National Wildlife Refuge, Oregon. Natural Friendship

One of the greatest gifts of volunteering at a wildlife refuge is the opportunity to learn about the history, biology and geology of the place. As year five on the road begins, I look forward to the abundance of experiences and education that await me.  If you would like to help preserve and restore Malheur, consider becoming a member of the Friends of Malheur Refuge. For a more detailed look at the history of Malheur NWR, see this article.

"Young Hawk Soaring" by Loree Johnson Photography. Red tailed hawk fledgling (Buteo jamaicensis) soaring through the trees at Malheur National Wildlife Refuge, Oregon. Young Hawk Soaring

Editor’s note: It was super hard to pick just a few photos for this article. To see the entire collection of photos from this summer at Malheur click here.

 

Whales in the Smith River!

Whales in the Smith River!

On Sunday and Monday, March 11th and 12th 2018, whales entered the Smith River in northern California. To be honest, I don’t know for sure if there were multiple whales or just one, but there were at least three different times over two days when a whale was in the river. In talking with people who have lived here for a long time, some of them all their lives, no one can remember ever seeing whales in the river.

Whales are tough subjects to photograph, mostly because they stay underwater about 95% of the time. And although I had a nice vantage point from above the water, the choppy conditions and the cloudiness of the river due to recent rains made it difficult to see or anticipate where the whale might surface next. Having said all that, what a sight it was! There were times when the whale was less than fifty feet away! I was and still am awestruck. What an amazing experience!

Whale SpoutingWhale Spouting

After observing this incredible event, I was curious about what kind of whales they were. And why they might be in the river. In my searching and reading, I discovered that these are Pacific Gray Whales (Eschrichtius robustus), which are commonly seen migrating along the Pacific Coast.  Here is an interesting article with a map of gray whale migration.

Whale Blow HolesWhale Blow Holes

One of the identifying characteristics of gray whales is they have two blow holes. This causes their spouts to go up in a ‘V’ shape. Another way to tell gray whales from other whales is their lack of a dorsal fin. Instead, they have a large dorsal hump, which can be seen just above the water in the photo below. Whale Moon
Whale Moon

The photo above was taken in the late afternoon on Sunday, March 11th. The photo below was taken in the morning of the same day. I believe it is the same whale because of the crescent moon shaped mark on the whale’s side, just forward of the hump. This particular whale exited the river late Sunday morning and then returned several hours later.

Whale Moon MarkWhale Moon Mark

There is some speculation that whales rub themselves on the ocean bottom and on rocks to remove barnacles. It’s not that the barnacles bother them, but more that they provide a place for whale lice to take up residence. The whale(s) that I observed in the river were swimming around a small area with many large rocks above and below the surface. There were no visible mud trails in the water, which would indicate they were feeding on bottom-dwelling crustaceans, as they do in the ocean. Maybe they were using the rocks at the mouth of the Smith River as a big loofah.

Whale Dorsal Whale Dorsal

This image is from one of the closest passes, which was made on Monday morning, March 12th. Here, you can clearly see the dorsal hump. Since the Monday morning visit was rather short compared to the other visits, and since I never saw the other side of it’s back, I cannot be sure if it was the same whale that visited twice the day before. During all three of these episodes, I kept hoping for a fluke. Sadly, the whale(s) never felt like lifting a tail out of the water. Below is the closest I got, where you can see the outline of the whale’s tail, just below the surface of the water.

Whale TailWhale Tail

I was fortunate enough to get a wave from a pectoral fin, though.

"Whale Wave" by Loree Johnson Photography. The pectoral fin of a Pacific Gray Whale (Eschrichtius robustus) breaks the surface as the whale rolls in the Smith River, California.Whale Wave

I have many photographs of these encounters, which are mostly documentary. If you are a researcher who studies these amazing creatures and you would like copies of the photos, I would be happy to share them. Please contact me here.

All in all, it was an amazing experience to see these massive creatures in a relatively small space. I continue to be humbled and awed by nature as I seek out encounters with creatures of all types and sizes.

Winter on the North Coast

Winter on the North Coast

The north coast of California is a place of wonder and beauty. Most people know there are redwood forests and breathtaking ocean vistas here. What many might not realize is that Del Norte and Humboldt counties are treasure troves of wildlife viewing. Elk, sea lions, river otters, bald eagles, peregrine falcons, and white-tailed kites are but a few of the wildlife species commonly seen here.

"Eyes on the Prize" by Loree Johnson Photography. This bald eagle (Haliaeetus leucocephalus) knows what it wants and is going for it.Eyes on the Prize

After spending last winter in the desert, this winter I was drawn back to the Pacific coast of northern California. The deserts of New Mexico, Arizona and southern California have their charm, for sure, but the Pacific Northwest calls to me like no other region I’ve visited.

"Papa Otter" by Loree Johnson Photography. Adult river otter (Lontra canadensis) taking a break on the rocks in the Smith River Estuary, California. Papa Otter

Although it’s been wet and chilly sometimes, most days there is nowhere I’d rather be. And all the rain has helped me track down the leaks in my RV!

"Sea Lion with Catch" by Loree Johnson Photography. California sea lion gorging on steelhead trout amid the winter run on the Smith River, California. Sea Lion with Catch

According to many of the animals I’ve observed over the last few months, the fishing here is really good! From seals and sea lions catching steelhead to otters catching flounder and shorebirds catching tiny baitfish, the food chain is truly on display.

"Heron with Fish" by Loree Johnson Photography. Great blue heron (Ardea herodias) with a freshly caught fish from the Smith River in northern California. Heron with Fish

If you travel to the north coast of California to enjoy the beautiful sights, make sure you take time to notice the creatures that make these incredible places their home.

"Spiky Elk" by Loree Johnson Photography. A Roosevelt Elk (Cervus canadensis roosevelti) cow trying out one of the trendy new spiky hairstyles after the rain at Prairie Creek Redwoods, Humboldt County, California. Spiky Elk

As humans, we sometimes get caught up in the beauty and grandeur of a landscape, while forgetting that it’s also a habitat for other living things. And, at other times, we notice nature’s diverse assortment of beings and forget the habitat required to support them. My time in these places has reminded me that we are all connected to each other and the earth.

"Mist in the Redwoods" by Loree Johnson Photography. After the rain, the sun shines through the mist deep in the redwood forest. Photographed at Prairie Creek Redwoods, Humboldt County, California. Mist in the Redwoods

"Eagle Flying at You" by Loree Johnson Photography. Bald eagle (Haliaeetus leucocephalus) in flight toward the camera. Eagle Flying at You

 

 

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