Finding My Way Home – Being a Snowbird

Being a Snowbird is the twenty-sixth installment of Finding My Way Home. To view the previous installment, click here. If you wish to start from the beginning, click here. This is the ongoing story of the six years I spent as a vagabond photographer.

The Organ Mountains rugged, craggy peaks tower over the Chihuahuan Desert in southern New Mexico, just east of Las Cruces.
“Organ Mountains, Las Cruces, New Mexico”

After a thoroughly enjoyable month at Elephant Butte, New Mexico, I have planned out my next few stays in the deserts of the American Southwest. My next two stops are also in New Mexico. First up is Las Cruces, where I have reserved a week. Next, I will be heading to Rodeo, which is a very remote location way down south in the “boot heel” of the state.

I will miss my frequent visits to Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, but am excited to explore new locations and get to know the desert a little better. As I pull in to Las Cruces, I’m a little surprised to see beautiful, towering mountains to the east. I ask about them at the RV park office and learn that they are the Organ Mountains, named for their resemblance to a pipe organ. I was mostly expecting flat landscapes, so I’m thrilled at the prospect of photographing the dramatic mountain range.

White Sands National Monument in New Mexico is the worlds largest gypsum dunefield. The white sand is particularly pretty when touched by the glow of the setting sun.
“White Sands”

I have much to do while in this semi-large town, since services will be lacking in the remote area of Rodeo. In addition to getting a haircut and stocking up on food and supplies, I plan to make the hour drive to White Sands National Monument for more photo opportunities. I also hope to visit Old Messilla, which, although technically part of Las Cruces, is actually a historic Mexican village.

The RV park I’ve chosen is interesting in that it has been converted from a trailer park. Each mobile home space has been divided into two “back to back” RV sites, which makes getting parked somewhat interesting. The bonus is there are nice common areas for dog walking and play and a large laundry facility, which is also something I need while here.

Fresh Hatch Chiles
“Fresh Hatch Chiles”

One of the first things I do when arriving in a new location is Google “grocery stores.” Upon arriving here in Las Cruces, I get the usual results of Albertson’s, Walmart, etc. But one of the entries in the results list is a place called The Hatch Chile Store. I’m very excited about this! I realize I won’t be getting most of my supplies there, but I make a point to visit the place. As it turns out, it’s not really a store, but more of a warehouse where they ship the delicious New Mexico chiles far and wide. They do, however, have a freezer with packages of roasted chiles available for purchase. I leave with enough to last me a few months. I once bought twenty-five pounds of fresh Hatch Chiles, roasted and froze them. This time, I’m happy to let someone else do the work.

White Sands is different than most National Parks/Monuments I’ve visited in that there are no particular individual features to see or photograph. The entirety of the park is pretty much the same, making the whole thing the sight to see. Beautiful white dunes as far as the eye can see in pretty much every direction. I notice families with children “sledding” on the dunes in plastic toboggans. A quick check of the brochure informs me that these are available for rent at the visitor center. My quest is to find some undisturbed white sand to photograph at sunset. I spend hours wandering around, searching for pristine views and trying not to make footprints of my own in my potential shot. Once the sun sets and I have some images, I hope to be able to find my car since everything in every direction looks pretty much the same.

The shady side of a dune at White Sands National Monument, New Mexico with a hardy yucca holding on against the relentless wind.
“Sunset at White Sands NM”

The trip to White Sands has also yielded some potential locations just east of town where I might be able to get a decent shot of the Organ Mountains. I will try that tomorrow, after a trip to Old Messilla.

I’m enjoying my time in Las Cruces and part of me wishes I would have booked more time here. It’s one of those places I’ve mentioned before. A place where the energy feels good. Alas, not having known in advance I would enjoy the place so much, I have already reserved stays for the next month and a half. After a week here, which went by way too fast, I’m off to Rodeo, New Mexico.

Rusty’s RV Ranch piqued my interest when I saw the reviews online. I make extensive use of reviews of RV parks in choosing where to stay. This one has very good ratings and a lot of unique comments. The place is frequented by stargazers and amateur astronomers because of its remote location and dark skies. No outside lights are allowed, and you must close your window coverings at night in order to preserve the darkness.

New Mexico's highway 80 is one of the "roads less traveled." In this image, it heads toward the Chiricahua Mountains, which are actually in Arizona.
“Sunrise on the Chiricahua Mountains”

Once again, I’m struck by the mountainous view in front of me as I’m driving to my destination. This time, it is the Chiricahua Mountains, which are over 9,700 feet above sea level at their highest peak. My perceptions of southwestern deserts are certainly changing. I make a mental note to come back and photograph this east-facing view at sunrise.

I am arriving on Thanksgiving Day. When I made the reservation online, I noticed the park was having a Thanksgiving dinner and pot luck for guests. Since it is a travel day and I have no time to cook or shop for a dish, I figured I would just have dinner in my motorhome like any other day. Well, Rusty will not hear of it. When I explain to her that I have nothing to bring, she insists that I attend anyway. I can contribute to the donation jar if I feel the need.

After getting parked and set up, I take a $20 bill from my wallet and head over to the community building in the park. It is a raucous gathering of about 25 or 30 people, many of whom live elsewhere and spend the winter here. And, like most Thanksgiving dinners, we find ourselves waiting because the turkey is not done yet! It’s rare to have an opportunity to meet all the people staying in an RV park at once. It’s a fun gathering and I feel welcome after only a few hours here.

Knowing that the nearest town with amenities, like a grocery store, is sixty miles away, I’m curious why anyone would want to stay here long term. Turns out, that is exactly the appeal for some. They like being an hour away from “civilization.” Making a long trek once or twice a month for supplies is fine with them, in exchange for a quiet life in the Chihuahuan Desert, surrounded by mountain ranges known as the Sky Islands, and under some of the darkest night skies in North America. I’m learning there are many different ways of being a snowbird.

The Chiricahua National Monument is billed as a "Wonderland of Rocks." This is the Organ Pipe Formation, which is just a small part of the formations that make up the monument in southeast Arizona.
“Organ Pipe Formation”

When I learned about the dark skies here, I had the idea that I might try a little astrophotography, something I have experimented with in the past. As it turns out, I have arrived here at the same time as an unusual cold front, with below freezing temperatures and cloudy skies. So much for that idea.

But, upon arriving at a new place, I usually ask the host what to see and do in the area. When I checked in, Rusty informed me that this is a prime destination for birdwatchers. However, the best time is spring and summer and I am here in winter. Still, I want to see what I can in these far southern reaches of the country, so I plan to visit Cave Creek and also the Chiricahua National Monument, which are both in Arizona, just a few miles west of me.

Rusty has constructed a walking trail that follows the border of the RV park. It’s a nice walk, totaling a mile or so, and a perfect place for getting to know the desert. As it turns out, Tom, who I met at the pot luck, and Molly, his golden retriever, also like to walk the perimeter trail in the mornings. We often meet up and walk together since Molly and Luna are becoming fast friends.

A juvenile male montezuma quail (Cyrtonyx montezumae) walking in the desert of southern Arizona.
“Montezuma Quail”

One thing that is abundant here in the desert is goatheads! I haven’t had to deal with those nasty foot-puncturing stickers in a long time and I’m not happy to have them back in my life. But, because I forgot a few times and found them with my bare feet, they reinforce my commitment to removing my shoes at the door. Also, thanks to Luna and her curious nature, we see our first tarantula here.

On one of my trips to Cave Creek, I spot and unusual grouse-like bird walking on the ground. On my way back home, I stop at the visitor center to ask for help with identification. The volunteer there tells me he has no idea, but lets me look at a book of local species. To my surprise, it is a Montezuma Quail. While not endangered, I learn these birds are notoriously secretive and hard to spot. I feel very fortunate to have seen one.

Since my timing is not the greatest for bird photography, I add this to the list of places I would like to visit again. For now, I have a reservation for the month of December in Benson, Arizona. I’m looking forward to settling in for a month and exploring the area just south of Tuscon. After spending the last two winters on the Pacific Coast, I’m starting to feel like a real “snowbird.”

Red-tailed hawk (Buteo jamaicensis) perched on a yucca stem in the New Mexico desert.
“Desert Red Tail”

0 Comments

Submit a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Subscribe

Receive an email whenever a new article is posted.
Loading

Post archives by category:

Newest images:

Pin It on Pinterest